Leaving Koh Samui to reach Krabi is not just a transfer, it’s almost a change of chapter. You move from one island to another, but more importantly from one atmosphere to another. To get there: ferry to the mainland, then bus or van to Krabi. Hours of transport, questionable snacks, landscapes that pass by… and that strange feeling of having earned your arrival.
Our first evening in Krabi is etched in my memory for one simple reason: today, papi treated doudoune. And honestly, after a full day of travel, a feast worthy of a backpacker king awaited us: pizza, Caesar salad, fries — a culinary mix that would make an Italian chef cry, but which, in the moment, tasted like paradise. But the highlight of the evening wasn’t the food. It was Laurent, a French man of about 60, sitting at the table next to us. His job? An hypnotist, no less. We talked for a long time, deeply, as if time had paused just to let us reflect. He led me to bring up with my papi topics I had never dared to touch — his life, his sacrifices, everything he put on hold for us. Conversations you don’t plan, but that change you a little forever. Thank you Laurent for this suspended moment. Who knows, maybe we’ll cross paths again one day in India.
The next day, heading to Railay Beach, one of the region’s gems. To get there, you have to go through Krabi Pier (just Here). From there, boats run back and forth all day. No bridge, no road: only the sea and those long-tail boats that sway just enough to remind you you’re not on a bus. Railay is a small peninsula trapped between limestone cliffs and turquoise water, accessible only by boat. A tiny “island” you can explore on foot, which makes it even more magical. Despite the tourism, it has become one of my favorites.
I decided to hike up to the viewpoint, the East Railay Viewpoint. On paper, it sounds simple. In reality, it’s a steep, muddy climb, with ropes installed to help you avoid slipping like a wet noodle. Shoes are mandatory, and even with them, every step is a mini gamble with gravity. But once you reach the top… wow. An unreal view over the cliffs, the sea, and the crescent-shaped beaches. The kind of panorama that makes you instantly forget you almost died three times on the way up. Even though the island is small, it is dotted with signs indicating where to go and what to do. There are many things to explore and see, from hidden beach corners to small paths leading to unexpected viewpoints. You could easily spend the whole day discovering its secrets without ever getting bored.
After the effort comes the reward: the beach. Warm water, fine sand, and that strange calm despite the crowds. I put on my mask to do a bit of snorkeling, without too many expectations… and in the end, I saw an impressive amount of marine life. Fish of all colors, corals, a real little underwater city. And as if that wasn’t enough, we even saw a parrot in the trees when we got out of the water.
What surprised me about Railay Beach was its small center, almost hidden between the beaches. A main street lined with bamboo bars, dim lights, and reggae music in the background… the atmosphere is clearly hippie, chill, and a bit timeless. You find restaurants, bars on the sand, and places where travelers spend hours talking barefoot, cocktail in hand. Some bars openly display menus with “happy shakes,” made with magic mushrooms, which is part of Railay’s slightly rebellious reputation. It’s strange, fascinating, and it gives the place a bohemian feel you don’t find everywhere in Thailand. Even without consuming anything, just walking through this street at night, with lanterns, food smells, and the mix of languages from all over the world, is an experience in itself. It feels like being in a little secret backpacker village, lost between jungle and sea.
Krabi is that perfect mix between adventure and rest. You come for the landscapes, but you leave with conversations, memories, and sometimes even revelations you didn’t expect to have while eating pizza with your grandfather. And honestly, maybe that’s what real travel is.
Leave a Reply